Give them a go - almost any hardware store sells them. But much better/faster/quicker than a butt connector. Or a bit of electrical tap on the wire if you're really worried about it. Once removed there will be a small nick on two sides of the wire's insulation that usually closes up on it's own. You can remove them with a screwdriver it's almost like they were never installed. Really easy to tap(t-into) or extend a wire. I buy them from 3M by the 100's - and like everything else 3M makes - they are kinda awesome. I'll tell you something I've become a HUGE fan of - these "quick splices". You're suppose to do a 5 pound pull test after you splice them - and you should be fine. I'm not really a fan of butt connectors either. I have seen so many of those actually melted from "out of spec" use.well, I just do not do bullshit like that, ever. Microscopic contact area, piss poor oxidization resistance, etc.scotchlocks are crap. 5A or less, but if you are running ANY kind of power through that you are an absolute fucking retard. I am all about learning something new though, so shoot me a link to this new "non corrosive" solder/flux.Īnd George.fucking scotch locks? What bullshit is that? Maybe if you are dealing with. Having taken apart hundreds and hundreds of solder joints and seeing how none of the manufacturers use solder on any wire tells me my proof is still correct. If you are one of the rare few who can solder correctly, have at it. A proper crimp (and EVERY SINGLE crimp of mine passes the 5lb test, unless it is 20ga or higher wire) is best IMO, but as far as typical hackery, I will take a hacked crimp over a crappy solder joint any day. You guys have to remember that the average solder job is crap, as is the average crimp. If any of you could show me a solder joint that has been in a car for more than 5 years that isn't corroded I might change my opinion.but butt connectors still win, especially in the professional world, where seat/dash/carpet burns and soldering while upside down etc make it damn near impossible to get any work done and maintain quality. NASA requires RMA solder, and that's what all the wiring that is soldered on the space shuttle uses. Any quality solder made for electronics is fine - solder till your heart is content. Basically - anything on your e30 will be fine. The only time there is an issue is then you don't have the wire supported and it does a ton of bending right next to the solder joint. I asked two MIT engineers (one that works building medical devices - crazy stuff) And I asked a third engineer that is an actual god damn NASA solder instructor.Īll of them said that it's fine and normal practice to solder wire. But they are far from "best practice" - if it's you own car, take the time to do it right.īut, he got me thinking about it - so I started asking a few people. If I was installing stereos for a living - I'd use them, they would save time, and let me move more cars. I saw Luke's post a while back - I know what you're referring to. And if you really want to know all his "PNC" crossovers that he sells, they are all soldered. Yes, that will mess up stranded wiring in a hurry. This is his red-neck customers that soldered wires with "plumbers copper pipe" solder and/or flux. I'll just let that preface that to this conservation.Also his "corroded solder joint" argument is totally invalid. EDIT - Luke thinks 911 was an inside Job, and that the moon landing was a hoax.
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